Clean, modern and minimalist, Yigal Azrouël had some of the sharpest tailoring that we've seen for Spring 2014. The black, white and gray collection relied heavily on texture and inventive design.
Silhouettes were simultaneously voluminous and body-conscious. Sharp feminine lines kept oversized coats and loose pants from overwhelming the figure, often accented by contrast piping. Necklines featured cut-outs and sheer accents on the theme of a sweetheart neckline.
Some looks could veer a little too austere. Long white blazers with white pencil skirts, not tight but not voluminous either, could look like lab coats or a nurse's uniform, and would do no favors to a figure that wasn't tall and slender.
Azrouel chose just two perfect prints for a handful of looks that departed from the monochrome theme. A branch print was concentrated at the waist leaving hems and necklines stark white by comparison. The other was a black and white jacquard that had a bit of a tribal feel to it.
The designer said his intent was "effortless ease," but that seems to shortchange the sexiness of a lot of the clothes. A mesh and leather bomber-inspired skirt suit towards the end certainly appeared more "strong" than "easy." There was a lot to admire in this collection of wearable, well constructed but still utterly creative pieces.