Inspired by Serge Gainsbourg's song "Cargo Culte," Gilles Mendel showed a feather-light collection this season, which was quite the feat given the intricacy of each of the pieces. That said, while the designer stayed true to his brand's luxurious heritage, he pushed the envelope a bit — in true Gainsbourg style — and showed some athletic-influenced pieces.
Done in a soft palette of pastels and neutrals with a few hints of black, the collection included wide-leg shorts, lightly ruffle hemmed skirts and dresses (often finished with pockets), high-shine fabrics that recalled scuba-wear (i.e. a highbrow take on neoprene), lots of mesh and open knit details and even more lace. Fur made a few appearances as well, including on an evening dress, but they were merely plush accents and not meant to keep anyone warm. While there were many fitted pieces in the collection and it would be a shame if every single one of the thigh-high slit gowns don't end up on the red carpet, it was refreshing to see the designer show more casual separates and relaxed silhouettes.