Costume National is a label defined by roughed-up simplicity: sharp edges, overlapping right angles and silhouettes so straightforward it would make Calvin Klein blush. Spring brought much of the same, palpable power in doing less, adorning less. The label adhered to a traditional spring palette—stiff whites, bright yellows, even some earthy heathered beiges—while also presenting a number of looks in wear-anytime blues and blacks.
Perhaps this season's key silhouette was the exaggerated jacket, with the ends of lapels grazing belly buttons and hems flapping loose—with sleeves or without. It's unfussy but still striking, statement outwear that's classic but still a little weird. This collection was also full of sleeveless dresses (one of the best being the tank dress in the cork-recalling beige fabric) and trompe l'oeil cut-outs (rendered modest in a shimmery, problematic nude fabric). In a phrase? Piecey and powerful, Costume National's forever MO.