The A.F. Vandevorst signature look was well represented in the brand's spring collection, even if it wasn't exclusively black (though there was, of course, plenty of that). The fittingly springtime looks that began the show were light-colored and light in spirit: relaxed silhouettes or tailoring in lighter fabrics. There was a good amount of studding (and even metal pasties for modesty beneath a sheer top) but even that felt surprisingly weightless, at ease. Random tufts of fabric and weird draping were ever-present, as per usual.
The darker movement began about halfway through the show (think a short-sleeved leather midi-length coat and dark pants seemingly pre-stained with dirt from bucolic revelry). In fact, this decoration scheme (pre-attached dirt stains) was a running theme—even on jackets and both aspects of a two-piece suit) and was kinda clever, rather funny. You really have to hand it to the brand for making the impossible—light-looking leather, pre-stained clothing—completely covetable.