Runway News

Carolina Herrera Fall 2014: A Lesson in Geometry (Runway Review)

imaxtree

imaxtree

The Scene: Carolina Herrera’s Fall 2014 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center 

The Inspiration: You can always count on Herrera for an intellectual, thoughtful collection, and her Monday-morning presentation indeed offered up the cerebral refinement we have come to expect. In the past she has spoken of specific references, a photography book she came across in her travels, or an art movement. This time around, Herrera wanted to be her own sculptor, using fabric and embellishments to craft proportions and textures rooted in modernity. 

The Look: Karlie Kloss opened the show as the ultimate cool-girl-with-a-mysterious-air in a black boiled-wool coat, pony skirt and cashmere turtleneck, sunglasses adding to the mystery. From dark and moody, Herrera segued into graphic prints rooted in geometrics, while an antique brass wool flannel dress worked the geometrics via origami pleating on its bodice. With her gowns, Herrera demonstrated her very sure hand in glamour with restraint: An ivory silk gown featured a gorgeous asymmetrical neckline and was cinched at the waist with a wide belt in deep mahogany velvet, but upon exiting, everyone was raving about Kloss’ finale look, a red (or “firestone,” in Herrera’s parlance) silk gown with just the right amount of geometric embroidery on its wide straps and around the waist. 

The Accessories: I loved the exaggerated fezzes (if anything, this show has taught me the plural for fez) that came out amid Herrera’s first looks (including Kloss’ opener), but I got a little beat up on Twitter when I said so, with one curmudgeon tweeting back that it looked like an upside-down flowerpot. I disagree; a fez, after all, goes back to the 17th century! So I’m standing by Herrera’s hat choice. The designer also paired several looks with some killer tassel earrings in deep red, oversized as though on steroids. 

The Beauty: I’m still thinking about Orlando Pita’s hair for this show: High, twisted updos that amplified the Park Avenue-chic vibe that wound its way through this exquisite presentation. 

The Casting: Kloss dominates A-list runways again this season, opening and closing Herrera’s show; we predict she’ll do the same tomorrow (Tuesday) night at Oscar de la Renta

The Takeaway: Emmy Rossum and Anna Kendrick continue their front-row reign this week, and here were joined by Tina Fey and Dita von Teese. Red carpet options abounded for any in this quartet of highly diverse style. But maybe, OK, leave the fez on the runway. 

All images: IMAXtree

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