The Scene: Tory Burch’s Fall 2014 show at Avery Fisher Hall at Lincoln Center
The Inspiration: Pre-show Tuesday morning, Burch said she was inspired by the suits of armor once collected by both her parents and her grandparents. On the one hand, that could inspire an uh-oh moment; what sort of style jousting might we see on the runway? On the other, we’ve witnessed plenty of warrior women this New York Fashion Week, and Burch’s interpretation promised to be intriguing.
The Look: It was easy to fall in love with Burch’s so-subtle armor references early in the collection, largely in the touches of metallics used sparingly throughout. A silver leather pleated skirt peeked from beneath an oversize cashmere sweater in smoky gray, while the gray flannel skirt that followed it was constructed with armor-like flaps, though in wool, with a silver embroidery that evoked the idea of chain mail. Both a shift and sweater richly beaded in Maltese crosses called to mind a dress Burch did for Spring that was quite successful for her, and it was only toward the end of the show that things got a little more literal, with Burch interpreting the heavy florals of tapestries one might find in Scottish castles into easy dresses or a skirt-and-sweater combo.
The Accessories: Burch cinched many looks with metallic gold belts (picturing armor, I wondered how heavy they were), while the boxy handbags with chain straps (croc-embossed or in suede or tapestry) are sure to be a hit with Tory girls.
The Beauty: Like Burch’s early looks, the idea here was less is more. Hairstylist Eugene Souleiman put very little product in the hair and tucked tresses under clothes as though to create bob effects on most girls, while faces were likewise bare and spare, with makeup artist Diane Kendal using from Burch’s line a nude lipstick that will be available this spring.
The Casting: Fresh-faced, Tory-friendly girls, while the front row included Ann Dexter Jones, Jessica Hart and, like the week’s ubiquitous warrior theme, Anna Kendrick.
The Takeaway: It’s possible to access a trend without going too over the top; Burch demonstrated that effortlessly with the early looks in this show, easy pieces all that should find favor with the twentysomethings who clamor for her work.