Last year, Tome lost the coveted CFDA fund award to Public School, but that hasn’t done anything to dull the hype around what’s certainly one of New York’s buzziest brands. Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin’s Fall 2014 collection, the third they’ve showed at New York Fashion Week and the first they’ve showed on the runway, put the spotlight on something many eager young designers forget to consider in too much depth – women, and what women wear. After all, it’s women who are going to buy their stuff, and women don’t always want crop tops and hats with animal ears.
What they will want are the drapey midi dresses, voluminous coats and richly lacquered fabrics that pervaded this collection. The first dress to hit the runway was an understated camel-coloured dress – something all women should have in their wardrobes but few actually do – which set the sophisticated tone. A cloaky coat in the same tone with a rich red lining was begging equally loudly to be your next investment piece.
Then were things that were pure fantasy (at least for anyone with a double-digit salary). Glossy satin dresses in pink and red, opulent brocades and 50 shades of muted metallic gold often all appeared in one outfit, and proved grown-ups can still have plenty of fun.