The Scene: The dichotomy of entering any of Marios Schwab’s shows from the heaving bustle of Somerset House is always palpable and despite the obvious pre-show bustle, there was a sense of calm to this show as the catwalk edges were strewn with candles and vintage search lights illuminated the room.
The Inspiration: A gothic romance of texture and structure. The show was like a literal wet dream with a sleepy, watery atmosphere as it moved from gothic temptresses to Victorian-laced nymphs.
The Look: The women looked otherworldly and ethereal yet intriguing, and the clothing complemented this in midnight and royal blues among faint hints of aqua and lavender. Diaphanous silks and feather-light layers swathed across the body were juxtaposed with leather bombers and woolen mini dresses as the girls paraded to The Doors' Riders on the Storm. While there were many references to the past, the looks had an element of futurism, teaming clean silhouettes with metallic pointed courts and signature Schwab rivet details hidden among the shirts and the bodice paneling within the dresses.
The Accessories: Sophisticated and gothic accessories by Ileana Makri with black leather chokers strewn with anchored chains, anthracite tone bangles and ankle bracelets worn with flowing silk and bomber jackets alike, set off with feathered backpacks by Sally Kite.
The Beauty: Just-awoken freshness and naiveté with invisible makeup, golden lids and peon pink lips courtesy of Val Garland, worn with textured ponies and loose locks by Sam McKnight.
The Takeaway: Marios has given a great deal in this collection, providing rich scope for day and eveningwear. While each look may not immediately be synonymous with the next, the collection is powerful and feminine throughout.
All images: IMAXtree