Runway News

Fendi Mixes Sporty with Chic in Fur-Heavy Fall 2014 Collection (Runway Review)

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The Scene: Those tuning in to the livestream of the Fall 2014 Fendi show were part of fashion history! The presentation was the first to be livestreamed by cameras mounted on drones hovering over the runway.

The Inspiration: A mix of pure feminine and wild military. “A mix of sport and sophistication, no period references," Lagerfeld told WWD. At least one detail was inspired by Billie Holiday — like the singer, Lagerfeld pinned fresh orchids to his fur coats.

The Look: Cara Delevingne smirking down the runway in an enormous fur hood carrying a tiny fur Karl Lagerfeld doll by a string with two prim fingers set the tone for the Fendi show. And it was all about fur. When used as an accent, it was wielded more like an applique than a trim. It was a collection full of strong shapes. While there may have been orchids, there were no wilting flowers here. The military inspiration was very literal with lots of structured coats and boxy silhouettes. More robe coats. Shapeless shifts with a foot or so of mesh at the hem to reveal the tops of white thigh-high boots. The different fabrics and furs all stitched together in one piece spoke to both the patchwork trend and a mixed-media aesthetic.

The more literal 20th Century military influences seemed to give way to an almost viking, Nordic military feel. Fur wraps fastened this way and that by big leather straps left one wondering if Lagerfeld is a Game of Thrones fan. The look circled back to modernity as coats began to reveal an almost aviator inspiration. Voluminous patchwork pieces had a rural, arts and crafts look that were as "homesewn" as Fendi gets. It once more proved impossible for a high fashion designer to present a collection without a sparkly statement coat.

Accessories: Tough, sporty booties, particularly a TDF orange and black pony hair pair. Fabric handbags: tweedy, bright fuzzy and luxurious fur versions. Fur-trimmed bejeweled metal cuffs. Purple tinted aviators.

Beauty: The beauty look was very precise, with sharply slicked back hair. "It's about purity of line," hairstylist Sam McKnight told Style.com. "Karl sent me an illustration with a very small head." Two side parts were made on either side of the head diving hair into two sections that were folded over one another and pulled into a neat ponytail. All was held in place with Sebastian Hairspray. "It's like a basket weave or origami," he said.

The makeup focused more on highlighting and shading than a "proper makeup statement," makeup artist Peter Philips said. Skin was semi-matte and taupe pigments were used. Philips was influenced by "old photos of Marlene Dietrich or seventies Guy Bourdin makeup."

Casting: Georgia May Jagger, Lindsey WIxson, Leona Walton, Cara Delevingne. FROW: Suzy Menkes, Antoine Arnault, Delfina Delettrez, Pietro Beccari, Saadet Aksoy, Caroline de Maigret, BryanBoy, Eleonora Carisi.

Takeaway: The show was predictably luxurious and pleasantly fashion-forward. The Fendi ready-to-wear aesthetic is leagues away from its logo-purse counterpart.

images: IMAXtree

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