News & Runway

Marni Piles On the References and the Layers for Fall 2014 (Runway Review)


The Scene: The Fall 2014 Marni show was set in a cinder block basement-like room with a post-apocalyptic feel that juxtaposed with the clean modernity of white block stadium seating. If you were waiting for more proof that Consuelo Castiglioni can come out with a commercial collection, I apologize.

The Inspiration: The program notes indicated "amplification, exaggeration, gentle distortion." Does that sound intimidatingly sexual to anyone else? Urban sport where "sport" equals high-fashion hunting, not sneakers and spandex.

The Look: This collection is timeless, not in that it showcased a classic style that would easily fit into any period of fashion, but in that it's impossible to tell whether it's Nordic, simply modern or futuristic. Simultaneously streamlined and voluminous, off-the-body silhouettes came barging down the runway. Oversized ruffles and peplums were made more sturdy in felts and wools. Marni's statement coat came in silver foil with a white fur collar-cum-capelet and was very space age. But a housecoat silhouette was more common with a few in quilted florals. As the collection wore on, the fashion became more post-apocalyptic as well — think rough fisherman sweaters under peplum bustiers and dresses that called to mind something out of The Handmaid's Tale. Feathers and fur had their place here, too, in voluminous, colorblocked coats and heavy, tail feather-inspired skirts. Game of Thrones style furs brought to mind Carmen Marc Valvo's warrior women. Extreme layering was exemplified by a wool skirt with an explosion of feathers below a rhinestone belt, worn with a wool peplum, a cropped, long sleeve sweater, fur wrap and chunky snood.

The Accessories: Gold cuffs, large, sharp-edged envelope clutches, chunky 90s heels along with chunky, pointy cap-toe loafers worn without socks. Also some ankle strap pumps.

The Beauty: A more extreme version of the matted helmet hair we saw at Peter Pilotto paired with natural makeup.

The Casting: Kai Newman, Tami Williams and a legion of Uma Thurman look-alikes.

The Takeaway: This was not a collection of clothes that will slip seamlessly into most girls' closets, but ultimately the artistry and creativity will win you over by having you think outside the box.

All images: IMAXtree

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