Runway News

Jean Paul Gaultier Gets Inspired by Vampires, Leading to Mixed Results for Fall 2014 Haute Couture

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The Scene: AïssaMaïga, Nabilla Benattia, Baz Luhrmann, Catherine Martin, Fawaz Gruosi, Farida Khelfa, Louise Bourgoin and CL were among the international jetsetters sitting front row.

The Inspiration: “An elegant vampire in a luxurious jogging suit,” Jean Paul Gaultier explained to WWD.

The Casting: Gaultier is never short on shock factor and this season he had an elderly model in a skin-grazing black look open his show and bearded Austrian drag queen Conchita Wurst, wearing a gothic bridal gown, close.

The Look: Without a doubt, the collection’s most memorable moment was the finale, which had Conchita walking the runway in a gothic bridal gown. The look, in true vampire fashion, came complete with a black veil, a patent red cinched waist and a fiercely intimidating glare. Given the inspiration, the collection was predictably dark in hue with most looks done in red or black. Drape-wise, the designer showed off his knack for sharp tailoring as well as more languid jersey looks. Sportswear was also woven into the mix with a handful of hooded tops, jogging pants, drawstring tops and jumpers. With about 50 looks, there was a mix of the dramatic but wearable — sharp pantsuits and tailored cocktail dresses with elaborate shoulder panels, for example — and the costume, see the gold suiting and heavily bejeweled and sheer eveningwear for clear-cut examples.

The Accessories: Near-shoulder length gloves, chunky and spiked necklaces, pointed pumps and T-strap heels accessorized the bold collection.

The Beauty: Described by the makeup team as “couture ghost,” skin was made very pale and matte and models were given dramatic red smoky eyes and dark red, glossy lips. Hair was styled flat on the sides and very high up top. Most models had hair in various colors — red, gray, black, white — incorporated into their beauty look and many of said tresses also had pearls, sequins or faux crystal accents worked in.

The Takeaway: Wearable or not, no one takes a theme and runs with it like Gaultier, which at the very least always makes for an exciting show.

Images: IMAXtree

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