Somerset House was teeming with the finest of the fashion crop this morning, eager to view the next instalment of F/W collections. Though the front row at Jasper Conran was not as impressive as other London Fashion Week shows, a buzz was created as Jo Wood and British pop group The Sugababes both made an appearance.
Conran kicked off the show with ballooning capes that swayed delicately, and woollen dresses worn over bodysuits. The designer drew inspiration from the sculptors Henry Moore, Louise Nevelson, and Barbara Hepworth, demonstrating a keen enthusiasm by presenting intriguing shapes in vibrant colors. Spherical coats and bodices showcased his interest in the sculpture, and his approach to texture and construction defined the contours of the female form. Futuristic mirrored sequins and sharp geometric cut-outs evoked nostalgia of the 60’s with a playful, contemporary feel. It was a magpie’s delight, as molten silver sleeves were cut and curved to reflect the light.
Inspiration from Moore’s work is shown through grey coats moulded into spheres with brief glimpses of skin through precise slashes. Hepworth’s shapes are interpreted in a softer manner through dark, floaty tulle dresses that boasted PVC panels, geometric sequins, and gleaming silver cuffs.
Conran explored a diverse color palette, ranging from ebony and stone grey to daring red, vibrant orange, and bright blue. A mix of warm yellows, reds, and oranges contrasted to polar blues, greys, and black while maintaining a fresh feel with clean cuts and fun, frivolous dresses. The flurry of color was stark against the blacks, encapsulated best in a cardinal red blouse against a black jumpsuit.
The use of color paired with the sculptural influences created a collection that was both visually stimulating and wearable, while presenting interesting, modern shapes, and revisiting designs from the past.