The London-based designer Emilio de la Morena consistently delivers collections which never cease to amaze. In light of this, it is no surprise that the line to enter the Somerset House show space was spilling outside of the tent, with Julia Restoin-Roitfeld and Olivia Palermo (who swiftly became the girl about town this LFW) waiting to indulge in the newest collection. We all had high expectations, and de la Morena did not disappoint.
It was easy to see where de la Morena drew his inspiration from, with an intergalactic palette of chocolate brown, aquamarine, anthracite, petrol, and a fiery orange which reminded us of Mars and its rusty red terrain. Fresh-faced models were surrounded in flowing fabrics as de la Morena demonstrated his otherworldly inspiration through kaleidoscopic prints. Hand-painted designs were eerily spellbinding as they adorn languid models. In signature Emilio de la Morena fashion, the hypnotic prints are manipulated and draped whilst fusing with a flurry of different textures. Mesh, organza, silk satin, and heavy crepe de Chine punctuate the dreamlike fabrics as short shift dresses evolve with ruffled panels.
The practical parka has made numerous appearances on catwalks worldwide this season, including Emilio de la Morena’s, confirming its place as a F/W trend. This season debuted a collaboration with the Italian luxury house, Loro Piana, who produced beautiful cobalt blue parkas with sartorial panache. Ranging from a protective cocoon style to a hooded and sleeveless version, the parkas added a sense of utility to the unearthly collection. Models sashayed down the runway in fringed lurex jersey boots that creeped into the mid-thigh range, courtesy of the long-time collaboration with Charlotte Olympia. The gilded heels definitely caught the eye of the audience.
Inkblot paintings are transferred into leather appliqué on sheer silk organza, and leather shifts are worn as undergarments. De la Morena’s structured aesthetic, paired with a dreamlike vision, resulted in his own stamp on the trends with an underlying effortless effect. Mesmerizing the audience, Emilio de la Morena put out all the stops to send us to a different world.
Images courtesy of the Fashion Spot forums.