For weeks prior to Copenhagen Fashion Week, the newspapers were filled with stories of the deepening financial crisis in Danish fashion while bloggers, editors, and other important fashion figures openly made fun of “the somewhat boring yet too packed show schedule plus the predictable show locations.” However, as usual in Copenhagen, even an economic crisis couldn’t put a damper on the casual mood and Fashion week turned into the customary laissez-faire affair of past seasons. Why worry about something when we can drink beer and have fun today? Throughout the week, it was, however, quite obvious who the big players are, which brands bring home the bacon, and who are the true geniuses.
Copenhagen Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2013
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The Breadwinners
Previous COS designer Rebecca Bay has clearly given Bruuns Bazaar a much needed rejuvenation and the identity of the brand seems more clear, the styles cleaner, the clothes more minimalistic, and the silhouettes more interesting with subtle detailing, boxy shapes, and luxurious materials. Bruuns Bazaar showed their SS13 collection in their own courtyard in the middle of Copenhagen and the simple styling of the show fit the collection perfectly. A pair of tapered pants that had a slightly dropped crotch combined with boxy 3/4-sleeved coats was one of the most interesting styles.
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Bruuns Bazaar
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Bruuns Bazaar
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Bruuns Bazaar
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Designers Remix
Designers Remix showed at beautiful location Skuespillerhuset that overlooks the Copenhagen waterfront and the show started just as the sun was setting. Designers Remix, known for its androgynous yet feminine styles seemed more tailored, more masculine, and sadly also blander than usual. The almost excessive alternating styles of feminine and masculine and mix of sporty and tailored was so explicit it almost seemed conflicting. Perhaps it was the element of diversity and contradictions that was the central theme of the collection but the finale with three neon colored prom dresses after an array of sharp suits seemed very out of place for a collection that actually had a few interesting elements such as an eyelet college sweater, a lace adorned pullover, a beautiful color combination of peach and dusty pink and beautiful chintz trousers.
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Designers Remix
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Designers Remix
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Designers Remix
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Designers Remix
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Designers Remix
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Designers Remix
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By Malene Birger
On Thursday, By Malene Birger celebrated life, realizing dreams, and 10 years in the fashion industry with her collection The Celebration at Øksnehallen and the audience seemed to like what they saw. At the end of the show, Malene Birger got standing ovations and the collection once again underlined why Malene Birger is so internationally acclaimed. The Malene Birger DNA was of course very apparent with slinky materials, perfectly tailored pencil skirts, and feminine silk blouses but the introduction of bright colors such as orange and pink and neon paisley patterns made it seem fresh, new, and exciting.
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By Malene Birger
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By Malene Birger
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The Masterminds
Seeing a Peter Jensen show is guaranteed to bring a huge smile to one's face and the SS13 collection and show was no exception. In the Peter Jensen universe, rules and social conventions are made for breaking, life is made for having fun and clothes are just a playful form of expressing one's identity. The collection was inspired by Mick Jagger in the 60s. “He has seven children by four women, a face with deeper ravines than the Himalayas, and hips like an anaconda but there was a time when Mick Jagger was an innocent looking kid,” Jensen says and refers to the corduroy suits and the college sweaters worn over simple and elegant shirts. As usual, Peter Jensen defies feminine and masculine codes and dresses boys in pink head-to-toe gingham short suits and girls in shirts with a printed loosened tie around the neck that screams, “Honey I just got home from a hard day at work. What’s for dinner?” Jensens playful nature is also evident in the (seriously) oversized satchels, the bunny-ear prints on college sweaters, arm garters worn on a casual blazer, and the simple yet polished brogues worn with socks.
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Peter Jensen
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Peter Jensen
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Peter Jensen
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Peter Jensen
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Peter Jensen
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Peter Jensen
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Peter Jensen
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Henrik Vibskov
Henrik Vibskov used to have a solid spot as the final show Friday night but what would the brand be if The King of Danish Fashion ever became predictable? Wednesday night, he showed the Transparent Tounge at the courtyard of Charlottenborg. The collection seemed slightly more downplayed and wearable than usual. Gone were the craziest most out-there elements while still keeping things arty, playful, and eclectic. Eccentric prints are Vibskov’s most interesting feature and for this collection there was an ikat print blown out of proportion that was particulary interesting. The collection also featured polka dot shaped laser cut-outs, pointy studded collars, dip dyed ensembles, and the occasional pompom-adorned men’s sweater.
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Henrik Vibskov
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Henrik Vibskov
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Henrik Vibskov
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Henrik Vibskov
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Stine Goya
If Vibskov is the King of Danish Fashion, Stine Goya is certainly the Queen. Her styles ooze delicate femininity and her color palette is soft, tender, and the designs are quirky, glamorous, and exquisite. Harlequin patterned angora cardigans, gold loosely shaped trousers, watercolor prints, and draped silk are all Stine Goya staples but she still manages to make them seem new and exciting each and every season. The collection La Parade Merveilleuse was shown with lighbulb frames as a backdrop and that made the clothes look even softer, even more feminine, and even dreamier. Stine Goya sure knows how to attract the girls.
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Stine Goya
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Stine Goya
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Stine Goya
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Stine Goya
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Stine Goya
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Stine Goya
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Stine Goya
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Wood Wood
Third Movement is the name of Wood Wood's SS13 collection and it draws inspiration from the Summer Of Love that first took place in San Francisco in the 60s and the second time in the late 80s. Just like the phenomenon itself, Wood Wood wishes to confront social norms and standards in a positive and life-affirming way. What better way to do that than in an industrial looking contemporary art gallery way off Copenhagen city centre? Wood Wood, that caters to the hardcore hipsters of Copenhagen, once again proved that it is possible to create streetwear that looks tailored and that the 90s is a wonderful source of inspiration. The colors were surprisingly muted for a Spring/Summer collection and the fabrics consisted of cotton twill, denims, and jersey. The performance-sports influences were obvious in both the shiny nylon fabrics and the elastic waists. The collection truly showed how diverse Wood Wood can be and featured as different items as very sports-inspired beige wind-breaker with a contrast-colored pocket and a beautiful but simple floral organza dress.
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Wood Wood
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Wood Wood
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Wood Wood
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Wood Wood
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Wood Wood
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Barbara
Barbara Í Gongini demonstrated true international class as she showed her SS13 collection at the Tap 2 Brewery. The location seemed perfect for the collection and the background sound of hurried heels on a wet basement floor, dripping water, and an old fashioned typewriter really set the mood for the dark, mysterious, and deconstructed collection with biker jackets, layers, zipper details, and a beautiful pleated gown as the finale. Gongini, a brand that originates from the Faeroue Island, is indeed dramatic and although maybe not wearable for most of us, really one with true international potential.
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Barbara
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Barbara
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Barbara
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The Swedes
Showing Swedish brands has been a surefire way of attracting international press to Copenhagen Fashion Week the past couple of years and this time a few Swedish but somewhat anonymous brands were crammed into the jam-packed schedule. Swedish Stylein presented their A Split Second collection in Copenhagen and duality seemed to be the central theme. The collection was a throwback to the early 2000s with slinky silk skirts combined with angora sweaters, halter necked playsuits, and drapes combined with solid shapes.
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Stylein
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Odeur
Swedish brand Odeur also decided to show its SS13 collection in Copenhagen and its focus was understated elegance, anonymous and discrete silhouettes, and on clothes as a way to “casually enhance identities.”
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Odeur
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