THE HITS:
“Classic Rodriguez, it always feels so elegantly effortless. The bandeau top looking dresses are out of this world. One of my favorites of the week” [HeatherAnne]
“This is really minimalism done right.” [TianSoFine]
“Sharp, elegant and simple. Definitely one of his best in recent memory, can’t fault any piece here.” [Fiercification]
“Great collection. Everything was very strong and directional. I loved his take on ‘prints’ with the embellishments. It was an interesting component of the collection. The color palette was also very unusual for Spring Summer, but I quite liked it. Very chic.” [helmut.newton]
“The black, see-through dresses are a delight.” [MulletProof]
“It’s a pretty outstanding collection… I’ve never wanted so many pieces in a Y-3 collection… some of the twisted tops and dresses are so amazing and you only get to really understand what is going on when you see it in 3D and see how it moves and how it looks from behind… which is the case with all of Yohji [Yamamoto’s] best designs… the team did a great job for the tenth anniversary show… bravo!” [softgrey]
“Yohji NEVER EVER EVER disappoints.” [ultramarine]
“They hit a home run last season, but this year it’s been hit out of the park. I adored the dresses mid-way, with the sexy-but-modern slits and the dresses at the end, with their grommets and strikingly creepy images of hoards of people. Their ability to mix pattern so well is what really sells them; I like that. The patterns, the contrast – the dots used to create what felt like an ombre. I just really loved it!” [TianCouture]
“Proenza Schouler is the brand that Balenciaga should be. Nicolas Ghesquiere created the super-modern Balenciaga, but he’s too lost in trying to be the trendsetter now, with gimmicks and styling in the form of plastic chunky knit and visor-hats. Proenza Schouler continuously offers extremely well-designed clothing, using unique fabrics, techniques and finishings that balance perfectly with each other to create unique clothing. I love how they have adopted hipster skirts for skirt-suits and high turtlenecks for dresses as their trademark silhouettes.” [Crying Diamonds]
“This was incredible! I love the visual impact these pieces had and I love the exploration of textures and surfaces. They are very talented. The way they combine all the elements together, and the way it all works, is phenomenal. Gerhard Richter, internet culture, python, iguana, leather, beach, graphicism. All the elements were incredible!” [helmut.newton]
Read our review and see images of the Proenza Schouler collection.
THE MISSES:
“They’re trying too hard. How many different techniques do they want to use?” [Crying Diamonds]
“Oh Rodarte, why do you do this to me? You are normally the best and my most cherished designers I look to at NYFW and you do this? It just feels regrettably like a big mash up of Proenza Schouler, Balenciaga and Marni. It’s a shame as the girls normally have their own stamp on things and that was one of the factors as to why I loved their aesthetic. And seriously what is with the hair? It is just awful.” [Razzer]
“This is so hard to swallow, I don’t even know where to begin. It’s great to see them putting an effort into trying new techniques and stretching their boundaries. That’s what designers should do. BUT in doing that the collection got lost in the sauce. This is a collection of two minds working separately instead of two minds working simultaneously.” [educo]
Read our review and see images of the Rodarte collection.
“What is up with the (really, really) low-waisted skirts? Please don’t make hipbones happen. Please. I beg of you.” [StoneSkipper]
“Uninspired… Half of the clothes look like prisoner outfits… or tent fabric… or Beetlejuice. I also hope low-waisted skirts won’t catch on.” [Morphe]
“I have an issue with those shiny fabrics, the op-art and the eye popping stripes. Not a strong collection.” [Lena]
Read our review and see images of the Marc Jacobs collection.
“I can sum up this collection in two words: shower curtains. But I’ll elaborate: the clothes were ill-fitting, cheap and plastic-y looking, and did not move with the wearers’ bodies. On a more subjective note, I didn’t much like the styling and I hated the sand dollar bras.” [tangerine]
“Oh my goodness, I am so sick of this. This is such a let down compared to his resort collection… I appreciate the small raw details featured and the peek-a-boo corset-like bras under the dresses but it doesn’t hurt to have color… Francisco!” [GERGIN]
“I’m glad he’s experimenting with different shapes. I just wish he had done it in a way that wasn’t so ugly.” [ALAUU]
Read our review and see images of the Calvin Klein collection.
Images: IMAXtree
