Article excerpted from rocketrend.wordpress.com
This season has been pretty exciting. I was expecting it to be predictable, but as fellow blogger Vogueite has said, recession can be a trial to test and challenge designers’ creativity and adaptaion.
London and Paris were exceptional.
For New York, I liked Jonathan Saunders (who happens to be a Brit), Julian Louie, Altuzarra and Doo.Ri. I can’t get over Doo.Ri’s collection, becasue she did something different which made people take notice.
I enjoyed Christopher Kane, Peter Pilotto, and Mary Katrantzou for London… and I thought Topshop Unique was pretty good as well. One designer that really caught my attention is David Lawlor from the Central Saint Martin’s show.
He spent “more than a year perfecting a technique inspired by Japanese body armour of layering waxed-cotton cords over cashmere sweaters, to create a lace effect for the outfits in his collection.” Like all fellow CSM students, he must be one those who spent a lot of effort researching and experimenting. The result is really superb, and very London-esque. I hope to see more of his work in future.
Milan was really safe this season. However, I do like Antonio Marras (as usual) and Missoni for the surprise factor. I would never have expected knit overload and homeless chic to emerge from Missoni since the house has been doing the same dresses/gowns/coats like every other house for a long time. It looks so un-sexy for Milan, and yet it feels so right.
My picks for Paris are Akris for their statement coats, Kenzo (because Marras has been on a roll for the past two collections), Miu Miu, Lanvin, Hermés, Galliano, Givenchy, Margiela and Comme des Garçons. check out the fabric on the Comme look below:
The coat has a fabric gradiant, right down to the chiffon, which is amazing.
Louis Vuitton is cute in a very Parisian way, but I can’t pinpoint how Marc envisons the Vuitton woman because every season ’she’ seems totally different. Vuitton must be one of the rarest luxury houses to have an absolute experimental ready-to-wear line thanks to Marc, which may be a good or bad thing. Their revenue is generated mostly from handbags (oh the latest Steven Sprouse mania… enough…) so perhaps that’s the explanation for inconsistency.
Lastly, the biggest trend for next season is the 80s’ comeback look. This Fall, it’s gonna be shoulders, shoulders, and more shoulders!