New York Fashion Week

News & Runway

GENERAL IDEA F/W 2010

Architectural, asymmetrical jackets with wide lapels were the order of day for General Idea’s menswear designer Bum Suk Choi. Add in rich color palettes of cobalt blue, creamy tan, and warrior black, and you have a collection that speaks to the young, urban man who is out to conquer the challenges of city life, but who still wants to be stylish while doing proverbial battle.

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LORIS DIRAN F/W 2010

During the roaring 20's, champagne flowed, cultural and sexual inhibitions loosened up a bit, and Wall Street and silent movies went unrestricted and uncensored. Corseted garments were replaced by loose, shortened dresses with deep plunging décolletage. In his Fall 2010 Collection, Loris Diran references the cultural shifts of that era reflected in such celluloid icons as Louise Brooks, Greta Garbo, and Douglas Fairbanks, Jr.  

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BRYANT PARK STREET STYLE

I have dreamed about coming to New York and covering Fashion Week for years. However, on the first day of NYFW, Alexander McQueen died..  So, as a small tribute to him, I started my street style report from the front of his New York store, where fans left flowers, and other tokens of their esteem.

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OSCAR DE LA RENTA F/W 2010

There’s nothing quite like the excitement surrounding an Oscar de la Renta show. Everyone is always dressed to kill – no matter the weather – and you’re sure to see a star or two in the mix. This season there was Jessica Biel and Rachel Zoe (hubby and Brad in tow) in attendance.  But it was Vogue Nippon’s Anna Dello Russo who left the most lasting impression.  Seated in the front row, the fashion director at large was donning the most luscious fluorescent pink Dolce & Gabbana fur coat. The bold pop of color was fitting given the bright colors – loads of rich emeralds, reds, magentas, gold – and the abundance of fur in Mr. de la Renta’s Fall Winter collection this season.

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NANETTE LEPORE F/W 2010

Nanette Lepore showed a romantic, Canterbury Tales-esque (think lots of velvet), richly jeweled-toned collection (aubergine, orange, fuchsia, olive, purple, crimson red) this season. Heavy on cocktail and day dresses, the styling played with contrasting textures, colors, and patterns to spice up the classic silhouettes Lepore's clients turn to the contemporary brand for.

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MAX AZRIA F/W 2010

When you take off all of the frills, beading, prints and ruffles, what are you left with? In this case, simplistic beauty that shows off the talent of the designer. Max Azria found it for Fall 2010 with his lean lines in black, grey, and nude color palettes. The minimalist looks were modern, elegant and showed off a true sophistication to his work.

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DIANE VON FURSTENBERG F/W 2010

Her designs are loved by both women and men alike. Women feel great in them, and men love the way women look in them.  Sexy and relaxed, DVF designs make a woman look fantastic and still approachable. Gorgeous knits and soft chiffons draped, layered, and paired with men’s suiting is not something Furstenberg is typically known for, but she put her feminine twist on these suit jackets and trousers for Fall 2010. Muted metallics showed up as dresses, and silks were cut and draped in a way to look like crochet designs.

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PAMELLA ROLAND F/W 2010

Among those who stopped in to see the classic Venetian glamour-inspired Fall/Winter 2010 Pamella Roland collection were Brooke Shields, Nigel Barker, and Mena Suvari.  In keeping with the designer’s inspiration, the richly-colored Pamella DeVos-designed looks were beaded, fur-accented, patterned, and at times even somewhat hippie-esque with bell-shaped sleeves. There was plenty to choose from in the way of cocktail and black-tie dresses, as well as a handful of smart business looks. 

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ERIN FETHERSON F/W 2010

Erin Fetherston dreams in beautiful pictures - or at least she daydreams them when she;s not working hard on her collections. A newbie on the block, she’s been well received among editors for her adorable, party dresses with fantasy undertones. She’s been very successful at creating beautiful dresses with a youthful aesthetic and expert quality.

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TIBI F/W 2010

Tibi, as is usually the case, was focused on chic, easily wearable, wholly commercial contemporary wear. The Amy Smilovic-designed collection did, however, venture into new territory by exploring the interplay between various fabrics, colors, weights, and silhouettes which gave a wide variety of cuts, prints, and colors to choose from.

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THUY F/W 2010

Before popping-into the Tibi show, Olivia Palermo made her way to Thuy – fitting given that the two contemporary lines have very similar consumer demographics. Kim Kardashian, who is in town to promote her line with Bebe, was also in attendance.  In a sign of how commercially viable Thuy is, Thuy Diep just recently launched a line for QVC which I happen to catch on Saturday when the designer, along with Marc Bower, Isaac Mizrahi, Rachel Zoe, and a hand full of others made their way to the tents to sell their QVC collections live on-air.

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ELIE TAHARI F/W 2010

This season Elie Tahari’s collection was “inspired by a woman traveling the globe in style.” Is that why there were no seats at the 9 am collection presentation at the tents? In any case, the designer stayed true to his contemporary client offering up a slew of chic, predominantly black, looks.

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DIESEL BLACK GOLD F/W 2010

I completely understand why there is mild chaos sometimes in the Bryant Park tents.  After all, if one show runs late it kind of throws the next person off in terms of prep time. When designers show their collection off-site, however, I don’t really understand how they can run so far behind. When I walked up to the venue where the Diesel show was taking place I cringed, because I saw a rectangular tent adjacent to the venue that was overflowing with people waiting to get into the show. The claustrophobically-full tent had no more room in it, so there I was waiting with countless others in the snow. Then the piece de resistance – a pile of snow slid down from the top of the tent onto a whole group of people already shivering in the cold. Word has it that Anna Wintour left once she saw the crowds of people waiting to get into Diesel.

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JILL STUART F/W 2010

Jill Stuart tends to be reliable for going soft and flirty for her Spring/Summer collections and more edgy-rocker for her Fall/Winter ones, and this season the designer once again stayed true to that. However, now that Stuart is working more closely with her 20-something year old daughter (who came out with her mother at the end of the collection), there seems to be a more pronounced effort to get away from the overly frilly dresses the designer is still most closely associated with.

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TRACY REESE F/W 2010

Tracy Reese went the way of Nicole Miller this season and pursued an edgier direction than expected. Reese didn’t totally abandon the bread-and-butter key looks that her loyal demographic turns to her for season after season, however. And, given the popularity of Reese’s contemporary line among young Hollywood, it’s little surprise that show attendees included Kristen Bell, Julia Stiles, Michelle Williams, and Adrienne Bailon.

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ANTONIO AZZUOLO F/W 2010

In Antonio Azzuolo’s fourth presentation for New York Fashion Week, he conjured up images of urban cowboys with a trajectory toward the future. Will this 21st Century cowboy continue to ride the range, or will he navigate between Venus and Mars? In Azzuolo’s world, he will successfully do both, looking sharp and sexy, while listening to the heartfelt crooning of Johnny Cash and Elvis.   

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KATIE GALLAGHER F/W 2010

If Katie Gallagher had her way, the entire world would don sheer leggings and pieced-together, puffed outerwear. The young designer didn’t vocalize that wish specifically, but the looks in her F/W 2010 collection, presented at the Soho Grand Hotel, would speak to that assertion. On display were 20 outfits that combined exquisite piecing, thoughtful draping, and the real star of the show: experimental leggings.

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MONIQUE LHUILLIER F/W 2010

Known for her bridal and red carpet looks, it wasn’t all that surprising that Monique Lhuillier opted to show only dresses for her Fall/Winter 2010 collection. What was surprising was her warrior/armor inspiration. From the patterns (think dragons), colors (red, gold, black), silhouettes (tailored with emphasis on the neck), and tightly bound hair, it was clear that there was an Asian-warrior influence behind the looks.  Especially – but pleasantly – unexpected, because most us tend to think of fluid dresses when thinking of Monique Lhuillier’s work.

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ZAC POSEN F/W 2010

There weren’t any gowns, but there were still a lot of fabulous pieces to talk about. Especially in warm gold and bronze colors. Trousers popped up in 1940’s inspired silhouettes, and fur was everywhere in amazing patterns and beautiful colors. It worked as a bootie, but not necessarily as a full-length sleeve on a boxy jacket.

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GEREN FORD F/W 2010

Hollywood glamour of the 30's and 40's seems to be the order of the day in many of the collections seen gracing the runway this season, and Geren Ford’s 2010 Fall Collection is no exception.  Maintaining her signature style of boho, jet-set urban culture mixed with classic modernist looks, Geren Ford turns it up a notch by incorporating elegant silhouettes of 1930's Hollywood glamour. Form-fitting aviator pants topped off with slick sexy, silk ruffled blouses or cropped leather jackets renders these Garbo-inspired looks.

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