When Martin Margiela left his eponymous label in 2009, his loyal followers waited to see how investors would respond. In the past few years we’ve seen designers replaced left and right but it seems the invisible team at Maison Martin Margiela are making it work without the added press bump of a big name. Opting to work from Margiela’s established aesthetic, which understandably is already ingrained in the staff, the team ironed out the initial kinks and it seems has found its stride as a label. This season we saw shapes that were undeniably Margiela with strong square shoulders, skintight nude tops, and leather pillar skirts aplenty.
In its conceptual glory, Margiela is probably one of the most salable collections of its kind. Separates and outerwear reigned supreme as standouts but you got the impression that as a show, it was little more than the sum of its parts. With the exception of the models hair swathed faces and the first look’s lack of usable straps, the show lacked the grandeur and intrigue of a show with the man himself at the helm. Perhaps after this showing, the team will realize that people are liking the clothes, it’s just time to bring back the whimsy.