News & Runway


AP Fashion Writer – Milan, Italy

Italian designers Miuccia Prada and Gucci’s Frida Giannini–who fall into the rare category of women who design both the men’s and women’s lines for their labels–could not have more different ideas on the subject for the Spring-Summer 2009.

The Prada punk and the Gucci guy on the Milan runways had little in common.

Take the music as a starter: Prada sent out theatrically made-up youths, all but tiptoeing down a wooden runway as classical music played in the background. The Gucci man sauntered down a mirrored runway to blaring rock music.

Prada’s idea of how a fellow should dress is more conceptual than real, with her latest collection a toss up between a ballerino and a minimalist bum.

The Prada boy does own a suit, albeit cut so close to the body it looks outgrown. But his preferred style is a silk duster jacket worn loosely off the shoulder, held up by a strap around the neck. His hairless chest peers out underneath. The styles come in de rigeur variations of gray, brown and navy.

Giannini has her new low Gucci boots firmly on the ground. Her collection is all about a fun-filled adventure through the tropics. The designer says she was inspired by what she calls `the irreverent look’ of MGMT, a Brooklyn-based indie band.

Here edgy upbeat styles–cashmere cardigans, leather biker jackets, surfer shorts and silk evening suits–are spiffed up by floral embroidery and rocker graffiti prints.

Tropical motifs play a huge role in the collection becoming the print of a shirt or the tone-on-tone embroidery on the back of a silk dinner jacket. Colors are bright, ranging from turquoise to amethyst to all-white for evening.

The Gucci man on the go sports a crocodile blue travel bag, classic tasseled loafers and a showy necklace with a colorful parrot pendant. Printed silk pajamas—a style favored by many designers showing this round–takes care of his at home time.