News & Runway


AP Fashion Writer, New York

Young designers need to be edgy to be cool; they need to sell their clothes to stay in business.

Phillip Lim tried to bridge those often contrasting ideas in a spring collection previewed Wednesday at New York Fashion Week in a conceptual presentation of essentially many wearable pieces.

There was a loose theme of a bullfighter – and that translated into a castanet-covered organza tank top, a conquistadora black leather jacket and a matador vest with gold-ribbon details, worn with black pants that were cleverly draped in the front to create pockets.

Several boleros topped feminine dresses that picked up on the loose shape and ruffles that have become trends at the Bryant Park tents. Another noteworthy dress was blush-colored and covered in fringe, like a flapper, that was worn with a refined military-style jacket with gold hardware.

The sheer chiffon trench coats were a modern take on a classic.

Phillip Lim 3.1 also includes menswear, but many of those looks were less likely to translate to the everyman–or even the hipster. The pieces included a seafoam-green, button-down shirt with a beaded collar and a castanet pin on a shrunken tuxedo.

Photos courtesy of the Fashion Spot forums.