News & Runway

John Galliano Spring 2014: A Sweet and Accessible Departure



Galliano shows are known for luxuriating in the excess—luscious, sumptuous fabrics in rich black, silhouettes obscured with artful draping. This collection bore little of the house's previous signatures. Unusual words could be used to describe this collection: "prim," "sweet," "understated." Pieces fit closer to the body and frills were limited to appliques.

It was a collection of very appealing pieces, even if they didn't immediately scream "Galliano." Cut-outs were really the name of the game this spring: floral dresses—in pastel mint and bright orange—had sweet cut-out 3D flowers, printed pants had a trompe l'oeil cut-out pattern (the look of cut-outs without baring any extra skin) and cool varsity jackets had nice geometric cuts on sleeve and body. This isn't to say that the collection lacked drama or glamour, though most of the pieces were straight-up pretty, accessible. Even the oversized pink satiny blouse with bug applique had a certain something to it. This new vibe could be mistaken for a lot of other designers' looks, but this collection maintained a great level of artistry to keep it unique.

The cut-out-recalling gowns—in a gorgeous, brave fuchsia, among other colors—were a nice way to bridge the gap between old Galliano and new. A more modern, sportier Galliano? We didn't exactly see it coming but we're certainly not complaining.

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