Vionnet Shows a Nature-Inspired Fall 2014 Collection with Mixed Results (Runway Review)

The Inspiration: Designer Goga Ashkenazi told WWD that he was inspired by the idea of “architecture versus nature.” In keeping with that, a tent in the Tuileries was set up with 20,000 fresh tulips.

The Look: The show very clearly reflected the designer’s inspiration, unfortunately it translated into mixed results. The styling for some of the looks — as with a knit turquoise sweater paired with a tulip-inspired beige skirt — had some hiccups, and there’s questionable appeal in the felt looks that opened the show (not to mention the collection’s oddball sock-like and furry shoes). Similarly, high-waist pleated pants and mink tops will be exceedingly difficult to pull off for most women and a few of the looks suffered from tailoring issues — some appeared too tight, as with a green and navy paneled slit dress, while others appeared too large, as with a navy quilted long jacket. More success was found in the stiffly geometric paneled tops, draped jumpers and monochrome below-the-knee pleated skirts, but whether those offered enough luxury appeal to convince someone to forgo Zara and splurge remains to be seen.

The Accessories: Shoes this season were on the oddball side with many of the models wearing either flat or heeled multicolored fur shoes.

The Beauty: Clean faces, pale lips and clumped-together lashes heavy on mascara were complemented by free-flowing hair.

The Takeaway: Vionnet is trying hard to make a comeback, but this collection showed the brand still has a way to go.

All images: IMAXtree