Article and photos by Jenny Söderman and Søren Jepsen of

Subtle and casual elegance were the buzz-words as Trine Wackerhaus showed her collection at the City Hall on Day 2 of Copenhagen Fashion Week. If last year’s cool and understated venue underlined the brands urban, femimine wearability, the large City Hall, only half-full, left attendees feeling disappointed.

Oversized frills placed on shoulders and hips, beautifully cut skirts and drop-crotch pants were the backbones of the collection. The color palette consisted of greys and blacks with a touch of dusty mustard and coral.

One of the most promising of the young Copenhagen designers is Bibi Ghost who creates clothes with an intelligent feminine sensibility to it.

Although the designer remains true to her original distinguishing look with baggy oversized dresses and crisp materials, she really did manage to renew herself for this collection with slightly more fitted silhouettes, lighter materials and cool detailing.

Although not typically a trendsetter, one of Ghost’s pieces – leggings with edgy cut out details on the knees – might just become a must-have for next winter.

Designer’s Remix may be one of the most established brands in Denmark, and designer Charlotte Eskildsen  may be one of the best at creating a coherent and cohesive collection. The A/W 09 collection had a clear theme – equestrian meets lady-of-the-manor at cocktail-hour. The show had models, wearing oversized riding helmets and whips, walking in cleverly choreographed dressage-formations on a square catwalk. The collection, not as strong as the show itself, featured neat little red and black jackets, well tailored riding pants and padded elbows. As the show progressed, the mood turned sexier with dark silk gowns, a butterfly shaped dress, and leather pieces. Designers Remix have indeed moved it up a notch but it remains to be seen if they’re innovative enough to last through the wave of Scandinavian minimalism. 

Stine Goya, always the true drama queen when it comes to aesthetics and shows, chose a simpler location than usual for this years A/W collection. The sense of Copenhagen patriotism towards the young generation of designers has always been strong and that was very evident at the show. As always, there was complete chaos at the doors and at one point the situation almost seemed out-of-control.

The show as well as the collection had cabaret and 80’s influences with pointy shoulders, accentuated waists, shiny lycra, sparkles, sequins and glitter. The highlight of the collection was a dress in a material that looked like a cross between leather and brocade. Other must-haves were a shift-dress with zipper details and a cropped tux-jacket with raspberry-colored linings. Obviously the Goya customer has grown-up.  Gone are the crazy colors, the naïve prints and the cute details. Unfortunately, Goya has also lost some of her quirky playfulness that’s so appealing. Then again…it might just be the times. Maybe it’s time for us all to be serious for a moment while trying to recover from the economic crisis. Nevertheless Goya has once again proved that she’s a true expert at making clothes that are highly flattering, ultra-sexy and hip all at the same time.

Thursday night Silas Adler (Soulland), the high-school-drop-out-turned-self-taught-designer, showed his Savage Mountain-collection at the industrial old Carlsberg Breweries . The young designer has struggled with production quality  and lack of renewal and detailing.

While the collection wasn’t sensationally ground-breaking it managed to be more varied and wearable (even for non-skaters) than previous collections, and even featured interesting details such as pockets and stitchings. The collection consisted of cozy knitted sweaters and cardigans, the classic simple urban shirts and baggy (although not as baggy as usual) chinos.

The best piece of the collection was a pair of chunky knitted leggings even though it takes some courage for a man to wear them. The collection was relatively small and ended too soon but in Soullands and Adler’s world it’s all good, as long as there’s a party afterwards.

The Soulland guests moved downstairs for one of the best parties of the week, and that might just be the true appeal of Copenhagen Fashion Week….it’s familiar and it’s a good excuse to have some fun.