Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Dresses the Modern Woman to a T for Fall 2014 (Runway Review)

The Scene: The show’s backdrop was not a plain white wall but a massive female face with flippy chin-length hair, made of lights.

The Look: A collection that brings together retro and modern, humor and clothes-wearing reality. These are beautiful garments and this is a luxury label, but this a collection that doesn’t take itself too seriously. There are humorous parings like a 3/4-sleeved bodysuit (with 3D bird shoulder appliqués) styled with ribbed stockings and a bundled-up scarf or a moto jacket made to mimic a teddy bear (which, we must say, looks awfully, wonderfully warm). The lit-up face backdrop wasn’t just random decor, but a hint of what was to come with the clothes. While the Prada flashbacks are kind of inevitable, these faces feel more like Impressionist renderings, and are used in a slightly more abstract way: zoomed-in on a dress, birdwatching or multiplied and pasted onto a scarf or exaggerated-lapel jacket; see also the face (much like the lit backdrop) on a fur top and fur coat.

The Accessories: Lots of good stuff here — vertical stripe fur scarves, a muff — but we’re particularly interested in the platform mules with buckled leather straps going up the calves.

The Beauty: Licks of solid colors (medium-purple, bright blue) on the eyes, slicked-back ponytails.

The Takeaway: Beautiful, professional, a little smartly silly — JC/DC is describing (while dressing) the modern woman to a T.

images: IMAXtree

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