A show like Charlotte Ronson’s should never be scheduled at an evening time slot on a Friday, but rather, before noon during the week (as I believe it was last season). The fact that Ronson’s sister is constantly in the news thanks to Lindsay Lohan, and that celebrities are guaranteed to show up front row to the contemporary show makes it a prime target for chaos and crashers – and it was. Perhaps the PR team behind the show anticipated all the skin-to-skin action, because the AC was on so high it was literally freezing. Once inside, camera men were going a bit nuts trying top capture all the celebrities (who as of yet have not been A-list or even B-list for most of the shows).
Nicole Miller is an inspiration. The designer has weathered countless economic downturns, and has still run a successful label for years. She is always out and about, all smiles at events, and while she’s never reached the heights of a designer like Ralph Lauren, she has a devoted, loyal following. This season, Miller was inspired by the city landscape which translated into a more aggressive collection – a trend the designer has been exploring these last few seasons.
Soft fabrications, feminine looks, and dramatic hemlines move this fresh new designer into novel territory. He got his break designing Michelle Obama’s inauguration dress, and now all eyes are on him to see what he’ll do next. It looks like he’s ready to expand from the ladylike dress he created and delve into a bit of outerwear and menswear-inspired daywear.
Adrian Alicea’s F/W 2010 show felt more in line with walking the streets of Beverly Hills, rather than sitting in the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel where the collection was shown. All hints of an economic upturn gained credibility with a collection of sequined stovepipes, three-quarter-length fur coats, and neon skirts. We may have scoffed last decade when Paris Hilton made occasional appearances in shaggy yellow garments, closely resembling a certain Sesame Street character, but Alicea has all but re-appropriated yellow-dyed fur, with a downright cool lemon-colored vest.
Rachel Comey’s Fall/Winter 2010 collection is mix and match at its most chic. For all of her quirky prints and cuts - think gold polk-a-dot embellishments and sculpted shoulders - Comey never sacrifices utility. Models strode the runway in loose-fitting sweaters, armored with fur vests; long curve-hugging skirts were paired with boatneck tops of equal bind.
About five years ago I was shopping at the now-defunct Williamsburg boutique N-7, and I came across a slew of Rebecca Minkoff apparel pieces. I had no idea that the designer behind the perennially popular Morning After Bag had an apparel collection under her belt. I immediately snapped up a black mini with geometric cut-outs on the shoulders - how ahead of the game was Rebecca Minkoff?
Karolina Zmarlak is a young up-and-coming designer who creates intricate pieces that can often be worn in multiple ways (little wonder she is popular with the Takashimaya-shopping set). I’ve met her in person on a number of occasions and she personally dresses one of my very good friends, so I’ve seen and felt her garments on a “real woman”. I am consistently impressed by how flattering her designs are.
The Project Runway show wasn't as packed as it has been in seasons past, as interest in the show (evidenced by sinking ratings) has clearly waned. There were no program notes, making it difficult to identify the designers, especially for many in the audience who weren’t regular watchers. I have to admit that I haven’t been as diligent about watching the show since the transition from Bravo to Lifetime, but I was still exited to see Michael Kors (in his trademark shades) and Heidi Klum (stunning) in person. And, of course, there was also the suspense over who would be the guest judge. To that point, the guest judge was unfortunately Faith Hill. Since when is she a fashion icon on the same level as someone like Victoria Beckham? Then again, Debra Messing was once a guest judge at the finale….
Girl-centric duo Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock have never failed to impress ever since their 2003 debut fresh out of Parson's. For Fall/Winter 2010, they have outdone themselves on the runway, their designs juxtaposed with grade A styling by Kate Young. Fox fur stoles and high-grade Wolford tights tenuously intensified the super luxe appeal. Yestadt Millinery topped off several VC looks accompanied by Retrofuture sunglasses, while heavy art deco "Mawi" jewels made of gold and silver accented metallic hinted throughout the collective expo. Buhai and Mayock marry divine architectural inspiration with collage prints on silk chiffon.
Ports 1961 began solemnly with a silent tribute to the late Alexander McQueen, who has been on everyone’s mind since the news first broke of his passing on the morning of February 11th. Following the silence, the lights dimmed and down the runway came, at the risk of sounding hyperbolic, 47 breath-taking looks. It was only the first day of shows, but I wouldn’t be surprised if Ports 1961 (as it often does), turned-out to be my favorite show of the season.
Given how blisteringly cold it was in New York City on the first official day of New York Fashion Week, I couldn’t think of a better show to kick off the season with than Mackage. Designed by Elisa Dahan and Eran Elfassy, the label is best known for their classic outerwear (I bought a black trench of theirs three years ago, and it still looks perfectly on-point with outerwear trends) but this season they opted to show their first full ready to wear collection.
Richard Chai is clearly in tune with the times. He chose, as he did last season, to show his contemporary over his designer line on the runway – and contemporary it was. Street-style meets grunge, meets a borrowed-from-your-boyfriend look dominated the collection which focused on layering and contrasting colors, prints, cuts, and textures.
Dark makeup, hair sprayed curls and stilettos up to there were the punk rock style accompanying LAMB’s rocker chic collection. Stefani rarely gets caught on camera not looking amazing, and it’s her fashion forward, cool style that made her one of the few celebs who has transitioned into design successfully.
The modern, asymmetrical ensembles that ruled the BCBG Max Azria runway were completed with a contemporary, sleek hairstyle created by John Frieda International Creative Consultant Harry Josh.
In a press release, Harry remarked that “the collection had a clean, modern feel. I wanted to complement that aesthetic with a very comfortable and effortlessly chic look. The inspiration came from the models themselves, who would come into casting and quickly pull their hair back into a bun. I really wanted to create a look that a woman wearing BCBG would sport herself, since the looks on the runway were also extremely wearable.”
One of the most exciting up-and-coming cosmetic brands, Hourglass, was responsible for the three distinct looks at this season’s La Perla presentation. It seemed wonderfully fitting that a brand known as much for the quality of their make-up as they are for the sexy, sleeck packaging would choose to partner with La Perla for their first venture into the New York Fashion Week scene.
One of my first jobs in fashion was working as an intern for La Perla back when they first moved into the Moschino space on Madison Avenue in New York City. I was a student studying Textiles and Apparel at Cornell University at the time, and was surprised that such a prominent international brand’s office was staffed with relatively few people. It was a lucky situtation for me, as I was able to get my hands into most every aspect of the brand, and I can truly say that there’s nothing like the fit and precise construction of a La Perla piece. Their lingerie and swimsuits are cut to perfection and their undergarments use the most sumptuous materials and delicate lace. I was excited that this season the Italian luxury brand decided to host a presentation to show off their latest collection.
Keeping-up with what the hot spot restaurants, bars, and clubs in New York City are takes diligent work (and near-daily nights out on the town). While there are a select few perennially hot spots like Graydon Carter’s Waverly Inn and Indochine, most places (think The Eldridge, Catch-22), make a big splash and fizzle out quickly. So where will all the fashion industry heavy hitters be come nightfall this Fashion Week? We’ve got 10 of the Fall Winter 2010 season’s hot spots. Waverly Inn – owned by Vanity Fair’s editor-in-chief Graydon Carter, there is never a shortage of high-powered folks in this eatery.
New York Fashion Week is finally upon us and kicking off an exciting line-up of shows is one of my favorite coatmakers, Mackage, who will be presenting their collection of outerwear at the Bryant Park tents. The shows will be taking place from February 11th through the 18th for the last time at the tents before Mercedes Benz Fashion Week packs-up and moves to Lincoln Center in September.
The devastation in Haiti is unfathomable. Our deepest thoughts and prayers continue to go out to all those affected by the tragedy. As we continue to see via dramatic footage streaming online and on television screens across the globe, Haiti has immeasurable ways to go in their efforts to rebuild; even the slightest monetary donation can make a difference. All it takes is $1 to provide enough clean water for 8 people for a whole month, so when we say every bit counts, it’s no understatement.
There couldn’t be a more wonderful way to cap off New York Fashion Week than with Isaac Mizrahi’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection. I’ve been obsessed with him ever since his TV days on Oxygen (and, of course,Unzipped). Not only is he a great designer, but he’s so charismatic that wearing his clothes brings an added energy.
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