Derek Lam S/S 2011 Backstage


It may have entailed an early call time, but there’s nothing like seeing Freja and Abbey Lee on a cigarette break to get your adrenaline up – and so began the scene backstage at Derek Lam, on the fourth day at New York Fashion Week.

Everything was cool, calm, and collected behind the scenes of the Spring/Summer 2011 show, and that’s to the credit of the seasoned team working behind the scenes.

This season, Derek Lam once again teamed with Estee Lauder and the brand’s Creative Make-Up Director Tom Pecheux to create the show’s beauty looks.

This included a graphic orange eye so beautiful, I can’t wait to attempt to re-create it later this week.

When walking me through the look, Pecheux underscored the importance of eyeliner, and not being afraid “to break the rules.”  He added that “most of the girls have very pretty skin, so there’s no need for a heavy finish.”

Estee Lauder Pure Color EyeShadow in Sugar Cube or Sandbar Beige, Sumptuous Bold Volume Lifting Mascara in Black, and Double Wear Stay-in-Place Lip Pencil in Coral were used on the models’ eyes. To achieve the orange-shaded look, Pecheux used two Pure Color Lipsticks, launching in March 2011, and Double Wear Stay-in-Place Lip Pencil in Coral.

Estee Lauder Double Wear Stay-in-Place Eye Pencil in Coffee was used on the eyebrows, Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick (launching March 2011) was used on the lips, while Bronze Goddess Soft Matte Bronzer, along with Signature Powder Blush in Sweet Nectar and Double Wear Stay-in-Place Pressed Powder were used on the models’ cheeks.

To create the natural skin look, Pecheux used DayWear Plus Multi Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme SPF 15, Idealist Pore Minimizing Skin Refinisher, Double Wear Light Stay-in-Place Makeup, and Lucidity Translucent Loose Powder on the skin.

Given the reactions I saw backstage, there’s no doubt in my mind that after people see this collection, orange will be THE eye color to wear (adios, plum).

The nails were also created by the Estee Lauder team, led by Jin Soon Choi, who told me that Pure Color Nail Lacquer (launching March 2011) was being used on the hands and feet.

She described the color as an “extravagant pearl,” and said that the color was chosen because of its gold-pearl shimmer combination, and because it  doesn’t have too much glitter.

“Minimalist, but still some hint of character, and it goes great with the orange make-up being created!” exclaimed Choi.

As for the hair, legendary stylist Orlando Pita conceptualized the look using the Orlando Pita T3 line. He explained that it’s “a little 60’s inspired, but done in modern, effortless way.”

Relaxed and unbelievably friendly, Pita walked me through the look, saying he started by blow drying with T3’s Evolution Dryer and using T3 Elevate Heat-Seeking Volumizer for texture and Plump Volumizing Spray . He then pulled and pinned the front of the models’ hair, and finished the look by bumping up the hair in the back just a touch (no Snooki action here).

For the models with very textured hair, Pita used a T3 Straightening Iron. All of the girls’ hair looks were finished with T3 Control Heat-Seeking Hair Spray to make sure the hair stayed flat and gorgeous throughout the show.