Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa is never one to follow the pack. A welcome departure from this season’s bright hues and referential collections, Costa went back to the label’s roots and showed a collection filled with seductive minimalism. The collection was in two categories: slip-dresses and suiting. Costa usually opts for the more conceptual end of minimalist but this season he took his cues from the label’s hugely successful underwear line. The slips, shown in nude, grey, pale yellow, black, and other such muted colors, went beyond the expected as they featured bralette design details and layers of sheer fabric. It’s not hard to imagine a retro songstress pairing one of these dresses with a bucketload of pearls and an oversized jacket.
The hemline was mid-knee which exponentially modernized the looks. As for the suiting, minimalist tailoring was paired with relaxed cuts and the ‘bathrobe’ trend that we’ve seen this week made an appearance as did 20s references. This collection, while less red carpet-friendly than some of his previous showings, is a breath of fresh air amongst the uber-tailored, overwrought collections that some designers have shown this week. I presume the sales line will have less nipple showing panels but one of these dresses could be a game changer in your spring wardrobe.