News & Runway

Peter Pilotto Spring 2012 Runway Review

Designers Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos, who met at Antwerp’s Royal Acadamy of Fine Arts over a decade ago, have earned their reputation as designers who live to work with interesting textiles, constantly pushing the boundaries of cut and fit. This season, the pair showed their print heavy collection on the penultimate day of London Fashion Week to an adoring crowd. Inspired by a recent trip to Indonesia, Pilotto and De Vos translated the lush flora, fauna, and volcanic ash into abstract manipulated prints that had a vibrant dreamlike feel. Head-to-toe print is a trend we’ve seen a lot of this season but the Pilotto team managed to keep the tropical prints from looking referential and bland. Unfortunately for Pilotto, the collection’s palette was reminiscent of Proenza’s Spring 2010 but the team managed to steer away from further comparisons with their clean, sporty cuts.

The designers also launched their collaboration with swimwear designer and stylist Lisa-Marie Fernandez, translating their clean athletic looks into super chic swimwear. The designers also collaborated with Nicholas Kirkwood for the third season; the results of which were bright floral beaded shoes with Perspex heels and prints echoed from the looks. The dramatic finale dress, worn by Alana Zimmer, was an intricately embellished, structured mullet dress worn with a detailed pencil skirt and criss-crossed bodice. In spite of the collection’s uniformly busy prints, it featured a great mixture of slim fit trousers and skirts with fuller skirts both long and short.