News & Runway

Mary Katrantzou Spring 2012 Runway Review

Walking into the Topshop show space bright and early for Mary Katrantzou’s spring presentation, it was clear that we were to expect lots of bright color from the new digital print master. A bed of red, pink, yellow, and white carnations lined the center of the runway and was represented as more abstract prints on the clothes. The collection was inspired by nature’s constant battle against man and we saw this translated through the juxtaposition of tin cans and machinery with abstract florals. As one of the most anticipated designers of this past week, some were unsure if Katrantzou would be able to sustain the mega-wave of buzz that she received last season, but she did exactly as she should have and showed a collection of similarly inspired looks with a slightly more wearable cut.

While last season’s lampshade dresses were beautiful, the thick and structured nature of the fabric was limiting in terms of who could wear it. This season had softer silhouettes and more wearable shapes – including this season’s printed suit trend. Katrantzou didn’t abandon volume fully, as there was a section near the end where she showcased a number of looks with volume sweeping around the body, but this was a natural progression for the designer. Her artistry wasn't lost, especially considering the museum worthy finale piece, but it was lowered to a commercial level that is sure to be well received.