The urban jungle has been a popular reference point this season, but it’s Alberta Ferretti who finally got it right. Straying from her usual feminine, Grecian goddesses, Ferretti showed a much more modern, one could even say sporty, collection. The most striking pieces came first, as the designer used a technique called intaglioto replicate tribal tattoos in chiffon and there was a shape for everyone as the ‘tattooed’ dresses came in many variations. These peek-a-boo panels, another trend of the season, were youthful and charming rather than indecent. Twenties references such as drop waists and cowl backs made appearances and there was a hint of flapper rebellion in the models undone hair and relaxed silhouettes.
The bold solid colors made way to stripes and prints halfway through the collection but the warm yellow and sand toned prints, while perfectly wearable and elegantly cut, were not the stars. It was the excellent juxtaposition of intricate details such as beading and embroidery with light fabrics in simple silhouettes that made this collection appeal to a much younger woman than Ferretti’s usual customer. It was something we saw start to appear in London, the relaxed sensuality, and it results in a much more modern and girlish collection.