Marco Zanini’s cinematic inspiration for Rochas’ spring presentation was evident in everything from the cut and colors of the clothes to the headscarves and cat-eye sunglasses. The designer noted Tim Burton, Hitchcock, and John Waters as inspiration and the influence was evident throughout the 50s style looks. With the exception of a black set of looks near the middle of the show, Zanini’s palette was filled with pastels and only a few neutral tones. What was most intriguing about the 50s influence in the collection was that some of the cuts seemed so strikingly vintage, rather than re-imagined, that you can almost picture them stolen from a film set half a century ago. This eccentric approach puts Zanini leaps and bounds ahead of his peers, also showing 50s silhouettes, as he embraces the quirky cuts and the body shapes that come along with them. Picking up cues from housewives and young girls alike, there was a shape for everyone.
Accessories had the industry atwitter after the show as the mirror-heeled floral sandals went on every editor’s spring shopping list and Zanini has also seemingly ushered in the return of the ‘milk’ bag; a small purse that has just enough space for your money, I.D., lipstick, and keys. Notably missing was the dramatic eveningwear the brand was so famous for a few years ago, but it was a refreshing show, especially considering the wave of 20s looks we’ve seen the past few weeks, and an excellent start to Paris Fashion week.