News & Runway


The 14th of September. This date may mean different things for other people, but for dedicated followers of fashion, this day marks the dawn of London Fashion Week.

Paul Costelloe, head of namesake label for over 25 years, opened the show. At 9:30 the pavements of the Natural History Museum were full of fashionistas clad in the latest trends and eagerly anticipating his show.

Paul Costelloe may have referred to the opening spot of London Fashion week as being “like a poisoned chalice”, but he need not worry. The fashion pack was out yesterday morning to see his new collection. Noted front row guests include model Erin O’Connor, designer Jimmy Choo, and British Fashion Council chairman Harold Tilman.

Paul Costelloe described his inspiration as “ the meeting of 19th century colonialism with the African continent”, and his description was right on target. The collection featured beautifully tailored military jackets and structured dresses accentuating the hips with tulip skirts.

Some of my favourite pieces, and what I consider to be the key pieces of the collection, take the form of blazers which were cropped, or belted and some with a rope cord detail draped on the shoulder. Another key piece was billowing floral harem pants (a la MC Hammer).

The collection had excellent use of colour which was boasted by the organisation of the show. The colour range started with a conservative selection of grey, navy and white, and then progress to vibrant, luscious colours such as yellow and fuschia pink, which just so happened to be a prominent colour range in New York Fashion Week.

Shoulders definitely stole the limelight. Asymmetric dresses with empire lines and full skirts, and emphasised pleated sleeves. The waist was also boasted with cocoon-like shapes and classic tailoring, signature to Paul Costelloe.

All images courtesy of the Fashion Spot forums.