News & Runway

Rick Owens Spring 2014: A Step in the Right Direction?



In a decidedly different move, high-end goth designer Rick Owens showed his spring collection not on routine ol' models, he instead showed his latest batch of clothing on step dancers, who performed intricate step routines on the runway. Along with providing slightly unusual runway shots (mid-performance faces are always pleasantly intense), this decision brought a lot of different looks to the runway: it was certainly refreshing—sadly so, really—to see different-sized bodies and a majority of women of color on the runway. Honestly, it's kind of tough to decipher this show from afar—was this just a cool way to showcase the clothing, or a kind of stunt to bring attention to the lack of diversity in fashion? It's not yet clear, but hopefully it's a promising, ahem, step toward righting some diversity wrongs.

The clothes themselves were kind of like historical warrior gear: draped dresses and armor-esque pieces in black, mushroom and dark gray. Lots of decidedly-not-delicate draping and fabric sashes to decorate otherwise superbly utilitarian silhouettes. There were almost no sleeves in this collection (better to dance in!) though leather looks and detailing ran rampant (big surprise!). The footwear to finish each look was kind of like exaggerated basketball shoes—sneakers with big ankle-lapping tongues and pod-like soles.

Spring at Rick Owens: expect both the expected, and the delightfully unexpected. A very interesting show, in the fullest sense of the word.

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