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Diane von Furstenberg’s Rapturous Wrap Party for Fall 2014 (Runway Review)



The Scene: Diane von Furstenberg’s “Bohemian Wrapsody” Fall 2014 collection at Spring Studios.

The Inspiration: Throughout this year, the designer is celebrating the 40th anniversary of her iconic wrap dress, a piece initially inspired by the wrap tops she saw ballet students wearing in New York in the early 70s. Hence her Ballets Russes-themed collection, dubbed “Bohemian Wrapsody,” a nod to that initial inspiration woven through a romantic spin only she could conjure. “I thought about a refugee ballerina who arrives in Madrid, and everything she owns she’s wearing on her,” she said backstage after the show. 

The Look: The ballerina wrap sweaters were only one part of the artful layering happening in this collection. Diane mixed ultra-bold graphics — some looked like her vintage prints, but on steroids — with tunics over flared pants or a shirtdress and pants in colliding graphics under one of those ballerina wrap sweaters, all creating a long, lean, sexy line. But her deft hand also knows how to employ volume, in cocoon coats in luxe jacquard or mikado, or a flowing cobalt gown topped by an empire bodice in her cosmic print. The finale, however, was ballerina-centric featuring a series of 15 variations on the wrap, each in gold. 

The Accessories: The designer employs leopard as a neutral, thus its easy use on sleek little clutches that mixed effortlessly with her bold graphics. 

The Beauty: What else would a Russian ballerina choose? Orlando Pita crafted upswept buns with a few wisps here and there, so they’d feel sexy rather than strict. 

The Casting: Karen Elson opened the show, followed by DVF favorites Karlie Kloss, Joan Smalls and Jourdan Dunn. But for such a seminal moment, how about adding a live band? St. Vincent, aka singer-songwriter Annie Clark, performed onstage. “She’s so cool and beautiful and hip,” said Diane about the performer. The gold-bedecked models and the designer joined the band onstage at show’s end as confetti rained down from above.

The Takeaway: Between the vibrant colors and bold prints, this was a collection about celebration. And girls will surely be clamoring for those ballerina wrap sweaters this fall.

All images: IMAXtree

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