Though the Stefano Pilati-designed Yves Saint Laurent collection was not meant to evoke religion, it’s hard not to think of nuns, priests, and churches when looking at the black head coverings, black and white combined color combination via fitted bottoms and loose-fitting tops, long single chain necklaces (bringing up images of a rosary), and short, shoulder-covering capes that made their way down the runway. In fact, the Fall/Winter 2010 Yves Saint Laurent collection was predominantly done in black with a handful of bright satin color pops at the end.
Even with the bright fuchsia, blue, teal, and yellow towards the end of the runway show, an eerie, dark vibe pervaded the collection, made even more so when a few of the models’ walked out with their eyes partly covered. Hard to believe that this is the same label that was once designed by Tom Ford, when looking at the downright lack of sexiness and femininity in this collection.
A feeling of darkness was so pervasive that it almost seemed reminiscent of Givenchy at times, though there were certainly (and perhaps unfortunately) none of the gothic or rocker touches we’ve seen in Tisci’s work at Givenchy. Pilati’s looks were simpler in silhouette, and when at their best more classically elegant, but one had to wonder why so much skin was covered, and why the silhouettes were often so loose.
It was the more skin-baring looks and those that infused shots of color that were the most successful – particularly when they were combined with feather or fur details. Even though the colorful looks at the end were overly simple in their design, with the exception of the mustard look covered in arm-constraining details, it’s clearly with color that Pilati does his best work, making it unfortunate that he so often turns to black.
Speaking of color, the shoes are always a favorite at YSL, and this season there were some fabulously bright blue ones with mohawked hair in the back.
Images courtesy of The Fashion Spot Forums.